Talgar peak is the highest point of the Trans-Ili Alatau mountains. It’s quite remote and hard for climbing. The most simple in technical terms route go through Korzhenevsky glacier, but qiute long, which allows you to go directly to the acclimatization hike and see the incredible beauty of our mountains – the Tien-Shan forests, mountain river, Alpine meadows, moraine lakes and the 2 biggest glacier of mountain range (Korzhenevsky 12 km and Bogatyr 9 km).
Season: July 15 – September 15
Area: Nothern Tien-Shan mountains, National park Ile-Alatau
Route: Almaty – Left Talgar gorge – Bogatyr glacier – Korzhenevsky glacier – Talgar peak – Issyk gorge – Almaty
Durations of route: 9 days, 8 nights
Accommodation in tents (minimum 2 nights on glacier)
Programme
Day 1. Transfer to the Medeu (30 min). Cableway. Medeu-Shymbulak-Talgarsky pass 3.165 m (1 h). Trekking. Left Talgar gorge – Red glad – Alpine Rose glade – Sun glade.
Distance 10 km; 6-7 h. Difference in height +450 m / -965 m (3.165-2.250-2.700 m).
Day 2. Sun glade – Ulken Mynzhilki gorge – moraine of Severtcov glacier
Distance 7.5 km; 7-8 h. Difference in height +1.100 m (2.700-3.800 m).
Day 3. Severtcov glacier – MUD pass 4.380 m – Bogatyr glacier – moraine lake umder Uraltcev glacier.
Distance 9 km; 8 h. Difference in height +580 m / -480 m (3.800-4.380-3.900 m).
Day 4. Uraltcev glacier – Traverse (Akgul pass 4.500 m – Bivachny pass 4.420 m – Suroviy pass 4.450 m) – Korzhenevsky glacier.
Distance 11 km; 8-9 h. Difference in height +730 m / -340 m (3.900-4.500-4.240 m).
Day 5. Climbing to Talgar peak 5.017 m.
Distance 6.5 km; 8 h. Difference in height +780 m / -780 m (4.240-5.017-4.240 m).
Day 6. Reserve day.
Day 7. Korzhenevsky glacier – Paradise dlade – Kokbulak pass 4.040 m – Issyk gorge.
Distance 11.5 km; 8-9 h. Difference in height +375 m / -1.015 m (4.240-3.665-4.040-3.600 m).
Day 8. Akkol lake – Bozkol meadow – Bear forest.
Distance 11.5 km; 6-7 h. Difference in height -1.200 m (3.600-2.400 m).
Day 9. Issyk gorge – Zharsay river – Hydrological station – Issyk lake.
Distance 14 km; 5-6 h. Difference in height -640 m (2.400-1.760 m).
